Note: this post was originally written for Baby Can Travel and the original link can be found here. Check out Baby Can Travel for other great travel tips and amazing travel guides to Paris, NYC and Barcelona.
"Well I guess Your Traveling Days Are Over."
Sound familiar? I started hearing it the moment I announced that I was pregnant. In our 8 years together, 5 married, my husband and I had travelled to 18 different countries. We had hiked the Inca trail, driven the icefields parkway in Banff, taken a microlight flight over Victoria Falls in Zambia, and spent a summer working at a hospital in Zimbabwe. Anyone who knew us knew that we valued travel and saw our growing family as a sign that we were going to slow down. But there we were, 3 months after the birth of our daughter, planning a trip to Greece with our friends and their 4 month old. We felt equal parts crazy and brave – but in hindsight it was the perfect time, and the perfect place, to initiate ourselves into traveling as a family.
Our Itinerary
We had two weeks in Greece. The first we spent island hopping – starting in Santorini before heading to Naxos and Mykonos. We then spent a few days in Athens before renting a car and heading north to Delphi and Meteora. We chose to start on the islands to give ourselves a relaxing place to deal with jet lag (more on dealing with jet lag later!).
Flights
We flew direct from Toronto to Athens. We had a short layover in Athens before taking a one way flight on a discount airline to Santorini. Check out what we packed in our carry ons here and some of the tips and tricks we have learned for dealing with flying with the little one here.
Luggage
We brought one large suitcase and a carry-on each. Check out what we pack in our luggage here and be sure to download our handy packing checklist!
We flew direct from Toronto to Athens. We had a short layover in Athens before taking a one way flight on a discount airline to Santorini. Check out what we packed in our carry ons here and some of the tips and tricks we have learned for dealing with flying with the little one here.
Luggage
We brought one large suitcase and a carry-on each. Check out what we pack in our luggage here and be sure to download our handy packing checklist!
SANTORINI
We stayed in Kamari, which was outside of the main tourist area, allowing us to get a beautiful hotel with breakfast and a stunning pool for a really affordable rate. We were also a short walk from restaurants, corner stores and a block from the city bus stop.
We had 2 full days in Santorini:
On the first day, we took the city bus (it was an air conditioned coach bus) to Oia and Fira to wander the narrow streets and enjoy breathtaking views of the sea. We made the mistake of bringing a stroller, save yourself the headache and just use a carrier – there are so many stairs that we spent more time carrying the stroller than pushing it!
On Day 2, we wanted to see the sunset but heard that you have to snag a spot in Fira hours before the actual sunset. We weren’t interested in doing that, knowing that the buses would be packed and we would have potentially tired and cranky babies on our hands. Instead, we booked a sunset boat tour through our hotel that left in the early afternoon and included a hike on an active volcano, swimming in the hot springs, and dinner. We only did half the hike (it was mid-day and there was minimal shade) and if you are traveling alone only one of you will be able to swim in the hotsprings at a time, but it was a great experience nonetheless. The boat had lots of space and shade, the food was fantastic, the sunset was beautiful, it was relaxing and our tour guide and fellow passengers couldn’t get enough of the babies. We had so many people offering to hold them while we ate that we almost had to create a sign up sheet!
We stayed in Kamari, which was outside of the main tourist area, allowing us to get a beautiful hotel with breakfast and a stunning pool for a really affordable rate. We were also a short walk from restaurants, corner stores and a block from the city bus stop.
We had 2 full days in Santorini:
On the first day, we took the city bus (it was an air conditioned coach bus) to Oia and Fira to wander the narrow streets and enjoy breathtaking views of the sea. We made the mistake of bringing a stroller, save yourself the headache and just use a carrier – there are so many stairs that we spent more time carrying the stroller than pushing it!
On Day 2, we wanted to see the sunset but heard that you have to snag a spot in Fira hours before the actual sunset. We weren’t interested in doing that, knowing that the buses would be packed and we would have potentially tired and cranky babies on our hands. Instead, we booked a sunset boat tour through our hotel that left in the early afternoon and included a hike on an active volcano, swimming in the hot springs, and dinner. We only did half the hike (it was mid-day and there was minimal shade) and if you are traveling alone only one of you will be able to swim in the hotsprings at a time, but it was a great experience nonetheless. The boat had lots of space and shade, the food was fantastic, the sunset was beautiful, it was relaxing and our tour guide and fellow passengers couldn’t get enough of the babies. We had so many people offering to hold them while we ate that we almost had to create a sign up sheet!
NAXOS
We arrived in Naxos in the afternoon, after a morning spent by the pool in Santorini, and were able to walk to our hotel from the ferry port. We spent a full day exploring Naxos including the beautiful portara, a 2500 year old marble structure that was the entrance to an ancient temple. The portara faces Delos, the birthplace of Appolo, and has a beautiful view of Naxos town. Naxos was incredibly walkable and a great place to use the stroller. The waterfront is flat and while other areas of the town are quite hilly, they are still mostly accessible.
We arrived in Naxos in the afternoon, after a morning spent by the pool in Santorini, and were able to walk to our hotel from the ferry port. We spent a full day exploring Naxos including the beautiful portara, a 2500 year old marble structure that was the entrance to an ancient temple. The portara faces Delos, the birthplace of Appolo, and has a beautiful view of Naxos town. Naxos was incredibly walkable and a great place to use the stroller. The waterfront is flat and while other areas of the town are quite hilly, they are still mostly accessible.
The next day was spent at the beach, just steps from our hotel. The water temperature was perfect, the bottom was sandy and the entry was shallow for quite a distance. It would be a perfect place to bring toddlers and older children who want to spend a few days soaking up the sun, building sandcastles and swimming! We definitely wished we could have stayed on Naxos longer. The food was super affordable, our hotel had a beautiful pool and everything was walking distance, including the ferry port. It also felt more authentic than Santorini or Mykonos.
MYKONOS
We spent 3 nights in Mykonos. We stayed a 15 minute walk outside of “downtown” Mykonos but the walk along the busy road was a little nerve racking. We spent a day walking around Mykonos, poking into stores and eating gelato. We also rented an ATV one day – another advantage of traveling with another couple – and we took turns touring the island. Otherwise, we spent time relaxing by the pool. Mykonos was stroller friendly, but, depending on the time of year, it can be very busy and the streets are quite narrow.
ATHENS
We booked more expensive tickets on the ferry to Athens, since it was 4 hours in length. It gave us access to a lounge area where the babies could be on the floor and we could safely leave our luggage. We took a taxi to our AirBnB, which was located next door to the Acropolis museum with a beautiful view of the Acropolis. We loved the central location and the convenience of having an apartment (including a washing machine!).
We got up early in the morning to make sure we were able to get to the Acropolis before the crowds. Despite getting there within an hour of opening we still found a huge line. We stood in line briefly, but “families come first in Greece!” a local said and dragged us to the front of the line and ushered us in.
We spent 3 nights in Mykonos. We stayed a 15 minute walk outside of “downtown” Mykonos but the walk along the busy road was a little nerve racking. We spent a day walking around Mykonos, poking into stores and eating gelato. We also rented an ATV one day – another advantage of traveling with another couple – and we took turns touring the island. Otherwise, we spent time relaxing by the pool. Mykonos was stroller friendly, but, depending on the time of year, it can be very busy and the streets are quite narrow.
ATHENS
We booked more expensive tickets on the ferry to Athens, since it was 4 hours in length. It gave us access to a lounge area where the babies could be on the floor and we could safely leave our luggage. We took a taxi to our AirBnB, which was located next door to the Acropolis museum with a beautiful view of the Acropolis. We loved the central location and the convenience of having an apartment (including a washing machine!).
We got up early in the morning to make sure we were able to get to the Acropolis before the crowds. Despite getting there within an hour of opening we still found a huge line. We stood in line briefly, but “families come first in Greece!” a local said and dragged us to the front of the line and ushered us in.
A carrier for the Acropolis is a must! There are lots of stairs and the ground is incredibly uneven at the top. There are shady spots to stop and feed babies but I would recommend going as early as possible to avoid peak sun and peak crowds! Because of our early start to the day we were able to squeeze in a trip to the Panathenaic Stadium. As an Olympic junkie this was a highlight for me! The audio tour was fantastic and the site was stroller friendly (save for a couple of stairs to get up to where the poster/torch gallery was).
Acropolis Museum: This is another MUST SEE!! I would recommend going to see it before you go to the Acropolis site, if possible, to learn about the restoration process and see some of the original artifacts. It definitely gave us amazing perspective of what kind of place the Acropolis was in Athen’s heyday! We went as soon as it opened in the morning timing it with baby’s first nap (in the stroller). The museum is completely accessible and has a nursing room and accessible washrooms with change tables.
Acropolis Museum: This is another MUST SEE!! I would recommend going to see it before you go to the Acropolis site, if possible, to learn about the restoration process and see some of the original artifacts. It definitely gave us amazing perspective of what kind of place the Acropolis was in Athen’s heyday! We went as soon as it opened in the morning timing it with baby’s first nap (in the stroller). The museum is completely accessible and has a nursing room and accessible washrooms with change tables.
DELPHI AND METEORA
WARNING: road trip with 2 infants at your own discretion. We didn’t think this through and 4 hours in the car around witching hour with two infants who hate their car seats … let’s just say I’ve had better days. The drive was long with lots of tears (from the infants and maybe a few from the adults). In hindsight, we can laugh about it but the drive was a definite low light. Once we made it to our destination though we were rewarded with spectacular views and wonderful sights.
We walked to the Delphi archeological site from our hotel with babies in tow. We walked the historical site first (timing it with the baby’s nap again) and then explored the indoor museum afterwards as an escape from the heat. Unfortunately, there was no change tables or nursing rooms. The staff was accommodating and kind but it wasn’t the easiest spot to change or feed the babies.
In Meteora, we decided that even though it might be easier to take the bus up to the monasteries (a city bus goes by every 30 minutes, stopping at all 5 monasteries) we would hike 45 minutes straight uphill with the babies in the carrier (all the walking made us feel confident in our fitness level, I guess). It was a tough hike but the path was shaded, well marked and totally safe. We picked 2 monasteries to see at the recommendation of the hotel staff. We also asked for a recommendation for the best place to watch the sunset – having a car gave us the flexibility to do this without booking through a tour group.
WARNING: road trip with 2 infants at your own discretion. We didn’t think this through and 4 hours in the car around witching hour with two infants who hate their car seats … let’s just say I’ve had better days. The drive was long with lots of tears (from the infants and maybe a few from the adults). In hindsight, we can laugh about it but the drive was a definite low light. Once we made it to our destination though we were rewarded with spectacular views and wonderful sights.
We walked to the Delphi archeological site from our hotel with babies in tow. We walked the historical site first (timing it with the baby’s nap again) and then explored the indoor museum afterwards as an escape from the heat. Unfortunately, there was no change tables or nursing rooms. The staff was accommodating and kind but it wasn’t the easiest spot to change or feed the babies.
In Meteora, we decided that even though it might be easier to take the bus up to the monasteries (a city bus goes by every 30 minutes, stopping at all 5 monasteries) we would hike 45 minutes straight uphill with the babies in the carrier (all the walking made us feel confident in our fitness level, I guess). It was a tough hike but the path was shaded, well marked and totally safe. We picked 2 monasteries to see at the recommendation of the hotel staff. We also asked for a recommendation for the best place to watch the sunset – having a car gave us the flexibility to do this without booking through a tour group.
There you have it! 2 weeks in Greece with an infant. I am not kidding when I say it was one of the best trips we have ever done. We moved more slowly and spent more time taking in the sights and sounds than ever before. We met so many amazing people people and had conversations with locals and fellow tourists that we would never have had otherwise. Greeks LOVE families and babies and we felt the love everywhere we went. We had hotel staff hold our babies while we ate breakfast, surprise us with plates and cutlery when we got take out, waiters who made us feel welcome despite our fussy babies and guides who made sure that we were taken to the front of the line at attractions. In Santorini, the hotel staff even made a special trip to the airport to get our stroller for us (the story of the misplaced stroller that I will save for another day). So go do it! Take the plunge and book your first trip with baby – you won’t regret it.
Have you been to Greece? Tell us what you loved most!
Have you been to Greece? Tell us what you loved most!