Tokyo is many people’s first stop in Japan, their gateway to this amazing country. We had grand plans for our 5 days in Tokyo but Super Typhoon Hagibis threw a bit of a wrench in our plans. We arrived on a Friday to overcast skies and preparations for one of the strongest typhoons to hit the country in over 50 years. The next morning we woke up to rain and reports that everything in the city, from shops to the subway system, would be closed at noon. We hurried over to the nearest grocery store and purchased some food and bottled water before hunkering down as over 200 mm of rain fell and 150 km/h whipped around us. Thankfully the city didn’t experience much damage but landslides did affect train service to the Mt. Fuji area and so we decided to forgo a day trip in that direction.
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With 3 and a half days left to explore Tokyo we had lots to see and not very much time! Tokyo is a huge city with a mix of Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, trendy shopping areas, quirky shops and so much more. What we saw and did was just the tip of the iceberg, there was so much more we could have done! I would encourage you to head over to the Tokyo Chapter and check out her many (many) posts including for almost every neighbourhood in Tokyo, for accommodation and food recommendations, day trips to Mt Fuji and Disney and where the best playgrounds are.
Day 1
With the subway still not running following the typhoon we decided to explore Asakusa area which was not far from us on foot.
Sumida Park
After a long travel day and a day spent indoors we needed to find a place for the kids to burn off some steam. We stopped at Sumida Park along the Sumida River to play. It’s super close to Sensoji Temple, less than 10 minute walk, and there is a playground on either side of the river. Both are fairly basic but have great views of the skytree building and the river. We also loved interacting with local children and families. It instantly connects us with the destination in a way that the traditional tourist spots can’t.
Senso-ji Temple
This Buddhist shrine is Tokyo’s oldest temple and most visited with over 30 million visitors every year. When you come from Sumida park you will actually enter the complex from behind Asakusa Shrine. We stopped briefly here to buy our first fortune (it was good!) and admire a wedding ceremony that was being held. From there we walked across to the main temple. We people watched from the top of the temple steps as people made offerings and burned incense. Walking in the courtyard below you could hear the shaking of the omikuji boxes as people got their fortunes and watched as people tied their bad fortunes to the iron rods nearby.
With the subway still not running following the typhoon we decided to explore Asakusa area which was not far from us on foot.
Sumida Park
After a long travel day and a day spent indoors we needed to find a place for the kids to burn off some steam. We stopped at Sumida Park along the Sumida River to play. It’s super close to Sensoji Temple, less than 10 minute walk, and there is a playground on either side of the river. Both are fairly basic but have great views of the skytree building and the river. We also loved interacting with local children and families. It instantly connects us with the destination in a way that the traditional tourist spots can’t.
Senso-ji Temple
This Buddhist shrine is Tokyo’s oldest temple and most visited with over 30 million visitors every year. When you come from Sumida park you will actually enter the complex from behind Asakusa Shrine. We stopped briefly here to buy our first fortune (it was good!) and admire a wedding ceremony that was being held. From there we walked across to the main temple. We people watched from the top of the temple steps as people made offerings and burned incense. Walking in the courtyard below you could hear the shaking of the omikuji boxes as people got their fortunes and watched as people tied their bad fortunes to the iron rods nearby.
Sensoji teple was just as beautiful in person as it is in photos and it was so great to just take time to walk around the grounds an enjoy the view of the temple and five story pagoda from every angle. We wandered down the Nakamise-dori – the pedestrian mall with little shops that leads from the inner to outer gate stopping to get some ice cream, of course.
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We stopped for a late lunch before heading back to the Sensoji temple area where Hannah insisted that she needed to get a chocolate covered banana she had seen. We wandered through some of the gardens and back through the temple area.
Asahi Beer Hall
We wanted to head here for the dual purpose of an afternoon drink combined with a panoramic view of the city. However we found it was incredibly difficult to find (the entrance was unmarked and was inan office building separate from the beer hall/restaurant) and when we did get there the staff were not overly helpful. We were informed that we had to purchase a drink for every person, including the kids! I tried to joke half heartedly that the kids can’t even drink beer but the waiter didn’t seem impressed. In the end, Chris enjoyed a drink and the view while the kids and I played and snacked in the atrium below. In hindsight we might have been better off heading over to the Tokyo Skytree which was in the neighbourhood. Since it was a totally clear day, we may have even gotten a view of Mt Fuji from the observation deck.
We wandered along the Sumida River and back toward our accommodation, stopping for dinner at the ubiquitous department store food hall. There are so many options in these food halls that you are sure to find something for everyone’s palate.
We wanted to head here for the dual purpose of an afternoon drink combined with a panoramic view of the city. However we found it was incredibly difficult to find (the entrance was unmarked and was inan office building separate from the beer hall/restaurant) and when we did get there the staff were not overly helpful. We were informed that we had to purchase a drink for every person, including the kids! I tried to joke half heartedly that the kids can’t even drink beer but the waiter didn’t seem impressed. In the end, Chris enjoyed a drink and the view while the kids and I played and snacked in the atrium below. In hindsight we might have been better off heading over to the Tokyo Skytree which was in the neighbourhood. Since it was a totally clear day, we may have even gotten a view of Mt Fuji from the observation deck.
We wandered along the Sumida River and back toward our accommodation, stopping for dinner at the ubiquitous department store food hall. There are so many options in these food halls that you are sure to find something for everyone’s palate.
Day 2
We headed out bright and early so we could be in Odaiba, at Teamlab Borderless, at 9:30. Teamlab is an art collective that has two digital art museums in Tokyo – Borderless and Planets. We heard incredible things about both but chose Borderless because we were traveling with young kids (18 months and 3.5 years). Planets is a “body immersive” experience with one large area that is fairly deep with calf to knee deep (for adults) water so we thought it might be a bit deep for the kids and worried about them falling and getting soaked. While we can only speak to the experience at Borderless we were absolutely floored and it was a highlight for us. The art work changes all the time so it changes while you stand in the room and if you come back later it might be totally different. There is interactive portions, music, a wave room with big cushions to relax on. It is 10,000 square metres and there’s no way you can see it all in one visit! If you are in Tokyo I can’t recommend it enough and if you’re planning on going here are some of tips and things to think about:
VERY important note: Since there is no map, and the museum is dark and has many different rooms it can be easy to get turned around. Make sure that you have a plan for if you get separated from your spouse or kids. When we got in we pointed out what the staff looked like and what they were wearing. We told Hannah that if we got separated she should find one of the staff and let them know she was lost.
We headed out bright and early so we could be in Odaiba, at Teamlab Borderless, at 9:30. Teamlab is an art collective that has two digital art museums in Tokyo – Borderless and Planets. We heard incredible things about both but chose Borderless because we were traveling with young kids (18 months and 3.5 years). Planets is a “body immersive” experience with one large area that is fairly deep with calf to knee deep (for adults) water so we thought it might be a bit deep for the kids and worried about them falling and getting soaked. While we can only speak to the experience at Borderless we were absolutely floored and it was a highlight for us. The art work changes all the time so it changes while you stand in the room and if you come back later it might be totally different. There is interactive portions, music, a wave room with big cushions to relax on. It is 10,000 square metres and there’s no way you can see it all in one visit! If you are in Tokyo I can’t recommend it enough and if you’re planning on going here are some of tips and things to think about:
- Order your tickets in advance. You can get them online as much as 2 months in advance and the website shows you whether there are limited tickets left for a given day. We got ours one day in advance. You are allowed to change your ticket date one time provided it’s prior to 9 am on the day that your ticket is issued for.
- It is closed the second and fourth Tuesdays of the month
- It opens at 10 but when we arrived at 9:30 they were already letting people in! Get there early to take advantage of seeing as much as you can while it’s quiet.
- There is stroller parking indoors and the staff provide you with a lock to secure it.
- There are lockers for a refundable deposit.
- While there is no re-entry privileges, they did make an exception when I had to pop out to do an unexpected diaper change. There were no washrooms outside so I changed him on the ground outside, not ideal but it was fine in a pinch.
- There is no restaurant and the tea house there takes only a limited number of advanced reservations per day. We brought snacks and ate them before heading in so that we could stay as long as possible!
- Wear running shoes – you need them for entry to the floating nest. It is also dark and the ground can be uneven so it just makes it a bit safer – and light layers – it is really hot in there!
- There is no map so you will have to do some research or ask directions if there are specific rooms you want to see.
- My route recommendation:
- Explore the main floor rooms first – you can’t go wrong every turn you find some unique room with interesting projections that change all the time. At 10 am when the facility officially opens, go straight to the floating nest and the lanterns, where there can be a long line later on in the day.
- From there go to the Athletic Forest – this is where we spent pretty much the whole time. There was a trampoline that creates a solar station where the more you jump the bigger a planet you create, a slide where your movement creates fruit then slices it up. There is a room with an interactive city where you move the elements to modify roads, rivers, train tracks in real time. The foam pieces are light making it possible for all ages to move them around. There is a small baby area with foam flooring and small lit balls to roll around that Nathan didn’t want to leave. Hannah’s favourite was the “aerial climbing” area where you could traverse floating swings at all different heights. There was one course for kids and another more challenging one for adults.
- Go through the “weightless forest” with its floating balls that change colour to the back where you will find the “Future Park”. Here we all coloured sea creatures that were scanned and instantly appeared swimming on the wall in a large ocean. It was incredible watching kids and adults all pointing out their creations swimming around the walls in and out of view.
VERY important note: Since there is no map, and the museum is dark and has many different rooms it can be easy to get turned around. Make sure that you have a plan for if you get separated from your spouse or kids. When we got in we pointed out what the staff looked like and what they were wearing. We told Hannah that if we got separated she should find one of the staff and let them know she was lost.
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Check out the website for video clips, frequently asked questions, directions and to purchase tickets.
We spent 3+ hours here and only left because the kids were getting cranky and hungry. If it had been us I think we could have easily spent another hour or two exploring. There are 3 large malls nearby with plenty of food options. We opted to go to Aqua City to the Eggs N Things and wandered back through Diver City in order to visit the Hello Kitty store and see the Gundam statue. If it’s a nice day, opt for something closer and then you can take a ride on the ferris wheel afterwards! There is so much to see in this area you will need a full day!
We spent 3+ hours here and only left because the kids were getting cranky and hungry. If it had been us I think we could have easily spent another hour or two exploring. There are 3 large malls nearby with plenty of food options. We opted to go to Aqua City to the Eggs N Things and wandered back through Diver City in order to visit the Hello Kitty store and see the Gundam statue. If it’s a nice day, opt for something closer and then you can take a ride on the ferris wheel afterwards! There is so much to see in this area you will need a full day!
Day 3
This was our day to explore the more central Tokyo sites. We took the subway to Shinjuku station and exchanged our JR pass before walking to Nikoniko park (Meiji Jingu Gaien Nikoniko Park). This park has an entry fee of 100 yen per child (3 and older) and 300 yen per adult. Inside you will find two large clean playgrounds, a greenspace, a fenced in area with soccer balls, tables and chairs for picnics, places to purchase food and washrooms with change tables. Hannah loved the zip line and Nathan loved the roller slide! Again it was amazing for us to see the kids interacting with local kids and playing with them.
This was our day to explore the more central Tokyo sites. We took the subway to Shinjuku station and exchanged our JR pass before walking to Nikoniko park (Meiji Jingu Gaien Nikoniko Park). This park has an entry fee of 100 yen per child (3 and older) and 300 yen per adult. Inside you will find two large clean playgrounds, a greenspace, a fenced in area with soccer balls, tables and chairs for picnics, places to purchase food and washrooms with change tables. Hannah loved the zip line and Nathan loved the roller slide! Again it was amazing for us to see the kids interacting with local kids and playing with them.
From here we took the subway to Shibuya where you can walk through Shibuya crossing on your way to lunch at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant called Ueobi. Thanks to the Tokyo Chapter for fulfilling one of our Japan bucket list items – this place was so fun. You ordered on the ipad and then before you knew it was coming out to you and stopping right in front of you. The kids loved the hamburger sushi (face palm) and the salmon and tuna was the freshest we have ever had. YUM!
From here we headed to Meji Shrine just 1.5 km walk away located close to Harajuku, Meji-jingu-mae and Kito-sando stations). On Sundays there are often tons of wedding processions that you can watch as they go through the courtyard (another plan that typhoon Hagibis ruined for us!). Or if the weather is nice you could always bring a picnic next door to Yoyogi park for some people watching. The shrine is open from sunrise to sunset and entrance is free. It’s located within 170 acres of forested area and the walk there is so peaceful it’s hard to believe you’re still in the middle of the city. It is a newer Shinto shrine, built in 1920 and so there are preparations underway for its 100th anniversary. Each of the torii gates that lead up to the shrine itself are 40 feet high and stunning against the backdrop of cedar trees. The kids loved running along the forested path and picking out which sake barrel (donations to the shrine) design was their favourite.
Note that there are lots of festivals held at Meji shrine and that as many as a million people will pack the shrine grounds on November 3 in honour of Emporer Meji’s birthday. It is worth checking in advance whether there will be a festival there when you visit and going during a quieter time when you can enjoy the atmosphere.
Note that there are lots of festivals held at Meji shrine and that as many as a million people will pack the shrine grounds on November 3 in honour of Emporer Meji’s birthday. It is worth checking in advance whether there will be a festival there when you visit and going during a quieter time when you can enjoy the atmosphere.
We left Meji shrine as it was closing at sunset and walked toward Harajuku passing the train station and then heading down Takeshita street to take in the sights and purchase the promised candy floss treat for Hannah at Totti Candy Factory. Have you ever seen a bigger smile? We found a great dinner spot that was casual with yummy (North American) food that was really close to Harajuku called Franze and Evans London. It was a long day with lots of walking – over 10 km in spite of all our subway rides – and we were ready for bed!
Day 4
Our last morning in Tokyo before we headed to Hiroshima. We started with a visit to the Starbucks Roastery a short bus ride from Shibuya station. We enjoyed a snack and coffee, there was so much fresh food with chefs working in the kitchen. There was a floor dedicated to tea and a bar where you could get coffee inspired cocktails as well as specialty drinks. We loved watching the freshly roasted beans being transferred from the roaster upstairs to the silos on the main floor and there was a beautiful patio where you could sit and enjoy the view. From here we headed to Shinjuku station to see the Godzilla statue. This was a highlight for the kids who thought that pretending to run from “the dino” and pointing it out and screeching was a lot of fun. We wandered around the neighbourhood a bit before taking the subway to Tokyo Station. We gave ourselves plenty of time to pick up our stored luggage and find our platform. We had extra time to grab lunch and snacks for the train but, like the other stations, it was HUGE and confusing so give yourself lots of time!
Our last morning in Tokyo before we headed to Hiroshima. We started with a visit to the Starbucks Roastery a short bus ride from Shibuya station. We enjoyed a snack and coffee, there was so much fresh food with chefs working in the kitchen. There was a floor dedicated to tea and a bar where you could get coffee inspired cocktails as well as specialty drinks. We loved watching the freshly roasted beans being transferred from the roaster upstairs to the silos on the main floor and there was a beautiful patio where you could sit and enjoy the view. From here we headed to Shinjuku station to see the Godzilla statue. This was a highlight for the kids who thought that pretending to run from “the dino” and pointing it out and screeching was a lot of fun. We wandered around the neighbourhood a bit before taking the subway to Tokyo Station. We gave ourselves plenty of time to pick up our stored luggage and find our platform. We had extra time to grab lunch and snacks for the train but, like the other stations, it was HUGE and confusing so give yourself lots of time!
Onwards to our next destination!
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